Phulkari, literally tanslates in to flower and shapes embroidery work. Made famous by the State of Punjab in India, this is a traditional Punjabi peasants clothing. The widely popular salwar suits, dupttas and sarees are hand embroidered with vivid flower and geometrical patterns of various shapes, sizes and dazzling colours. This an art of creating the most intricate designs with deft silken threading work that gives an embossed effect on the fabric and enhances the appeal of the outfit and the wearer.
The original fabric which was used to construct the famous works are a thicker variety of cotton known as khaddar. This is widely sought after material of choice because it can be worn for all seasons across the country. Cotton is the predominant fabric used in India because of its warmer climatic conditions. Other fabrics that are used for the Phulkari Suits are the chiffon, silk, georgette, light cotton, etc which are the preferred material for making wedding suits and party suits, because they enrich the look and feel of the art work.
This vibrant patterns are hand embroidered with a different styles and motifs classified as Chope, Kata, Sainchi, Tilak, Suber Til Patra, Thirma, Sheeshdar and Darshan Dwar, each having its own version of exquisite craftsmanship with unique stitching and finishing that are meant for different occasions.
The Chope has the same design on either sides of the cloth with large motifs. The Kata is similar the Chope with floral designs. The Sainchi depicts humans, animals and village activities like weaving, ploughing, carrying a pot, etc. The Tilak is meant for bridal ceremonies in weddings and has a bright background with golden borders and floral designs. The Suber is a geometric square or diamond designs done on silky fabric traditionally a gift to the bride from her maternal grandmother. The Til Patra is a seed pattern embroidered on a dark background with light colour threading. The Sheeshdar is dotted with small mirrors stitched on the design, the Darshan Dwar, as the name implies is specially made as gifts for temple deities, etc.
The cost of the Phulkari Suits also differ on the type of fabric used, the intricacies of the needlework, thread material and how it is made. The hand woven is considered expensive due to its labor intensive work whereas the machine made is mass produced and are relatively lower priced and can be worn as everyday garment.
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